Drag racing tires are designed to push the car to maximum acceleration in a straight line. Some of them are showing the best results on a drag strip, the others — designed for street racing. Both aren’t cheap at all. Before spending the money, find out which kind of tire you need (if you do at all) and check out the possibilities of saving cash by getting used drag racing tires.
There is no other motorsport discipline where instantaneous motor kickback is as important as in drag racing. But a race car without the possibility of using its energy — is just a car. Whatever power you got under the hood, you need a tire that will keep your beast on the ground. And drag tires — is what turns a herd of a thousand horses into extremely high speeds in nano-seconds.
New or used drag racing tires have the highest speed ratings possible — W (168 mph) or Y (186 mph), sometimes even higher. And one of the most popular questions about them: “Can you also drive them home?” Yes, you can. But with significant exemptions.
In this article we talk about used drag racing tires that are approved for legal street use by the US DOT (Department Of Transportation Regulations). But there are some sport kinds (like Hoosier racing tires) that belong to this official classification just formally. Buying them, keep in mind that they are allowed for street use — but not recommended. The others, like Mickey Thompson Et Street Radials, Proxes TQ, Nitto NT05R, BFGoodrich g-Force T/A are more adapted for the usual roads.
High-performance power of a tire should provide acceleration, not the clouds of smoke and bits of rubber. And one of the main reasons for the insane speeds to be achieved in obscenely short periods — is the ultimate grip of drag racing tires with the drag strip. Manufacturers use special compounds to increase its stickiness: when the tire is heated, the components are activated and maximize the adhesion.
But let’s dive deeper into the drag racers’ world.
New or used drag radial tires — the performance tires which are incredibly durable, provide outstanding grip, are created for extremely high speeds, but are still usable on the streets. The tread pattern is directional and allows a small amount of water to be channeled away from the contact patch. But it still is not recommended to use them in rainy weather conditions. They are summer tires for dry weather.
Bias ply tires (or “slicks”) design was first developed by M&H Tires in the early 50’s specifically for providing maximum acceleration in a straight line — but not on curvy tracks. They are the best in the strip, but a hard turn on the road can become the last one for them. This characteristic makes slicks unusable in "civil" conditions.
To understand the difference between these two categories, let's refer to the industry leaders. Carl Robinson of Mickey Thompson Tires says: “A clutch car will work much better with bias-ply ET Street tires. I’m not saying radials won’t work, but it takes a sophisticated clutch and suspension to take advantage of the reduced rolling resistance of a radial early in the run”.
At high speeds, tires change in diameter, because the centrifugal force has not been canceled. In nitromethane classes (Top Fuel and Funny Car), the rear tires take the shape of a donut during the burnout, raising the rear of the dragster by 4-6 inches. How they perform would depend not on new or used tires they are, but on many other factors: rubber softness, width, and height of the profile. So it is very important to choose the model of the tire properly.
Good quality tires will perform well if they are slightly used and not damaged. Aim for at least 5/32” of a tread left: it’s a happy medium for a used drag tire, and it will perform just fine.
Utires.com offers a profound selection of used drag racing tires with half or more tread left. Mostly they were used for practice. We are attentively checking all treads and selling just Grade A tires — without or with insignificant repairs, with discounts up to 50% in comparison to the new product.
Many people believe that the stiffer the rubber is, the less it suits the drag racing. No matter if the tires are new or used, this statement is not entirely correct. The stiffness of slicks should be determined by specific parameters, e. g. the mass of the dragster.
According to Ken Warner, a Mickey Thompson Tires specialist, using soft rubber on heavy cars will cause premature wear, while on a light dragster it will provide the right level of grip. Therefore, the more the weight, the harder the slicks, and this sounds quite rational.
Another important consideration when choosing tires is the configuration of the drivetrain used. So, for example, if you drop the grip on a dragster with soft rubber, this will cause a decrease in the contact patch after the start due to a sharp increase in the diameter of the tire (more on this below). On the other hand, automatic transmissions and multi-plate clutch circuits allow the transfer of engine torque to the wheels on an ascending basis, which in turn makes it possible to most efficiently realize the potential of super soft tires.
Burnout — warming up the rubber before the start by slipping, is also an important component of a good grip. Firstly, after warming up the slicks, it is necessary to take the starting position (stage) as early as possible, and secondly, you need not overdo it. Ken Warner advises stopping as soon as white smoke pours out from under the rear bumper. Naturally, the higher the air temperature, the less time it takes to warm up the slicks. In addition, it is important not to overheat the rubber, because this is a direct way to the fact that it subsequently loses its softness. The essence of burnout can be decomposed into three components: directly increasing the adhesion properties of tires, cleaning them from foreign objects — small stones, sand, or dust, as well as increasing the adhesion properties of the strip itself because some of the rubber remains on the road surface.
Optimal tire pressure is another success factor. High pressure reduces rolling resistance, which in turn is beneficial for acceleration and top speed. Therefore, experts recommend not skimping on the atmosphere. On the other hand, over-inflated rear tires are a knowingly reduced contact patch, which will negatively affect the grip.
The rims of dragsters developing over 200 mph are necessarily equipped with special locks that do not allow the disc to turn inside the tire. At best, such slippage will affect the strip travel time, at worst it will cause wear and eventually destroy the tire.
The prices of used drag racing tires at Utires.com range from $100 to $150 for one tire. For the set of 4 used tires the price is about $300. But follow our updates: there is always a chance to find even better prices on promotions and special offers!
Drag tires are good for high speed sporty drives on performance cars. They are not recommended for casual everyday rides.
Yes and No. Only those drag racing tires are legal that are approved for street use by the DOT (the US Department Of Transportation). You can find a special mark on the sidewall of the tire.
You can buy used drag racing tires from local stores, supermarkets or online marketplaces, but most likely the biggest variety of products at affordable prices can be found at a reputable online store that specializes in used tires. At Utires.com, for example, you will only find Grade A models — tires with none or minor repairs. Each of our used drag racing tires is carefully inspected — both automatically and manually. We guarantee their quality and safety for driving. Plus free shipping with every order!